We Wish You a Happy New Year and a Happy New Year

We've been trying to figure out why there are Christmas trees and lights and "Jingle Bells" and George Micheal's "Last Christmas" playing non-stop wherever we go, but not only is there no Christ in Christmas, there's no Christmas in Christmas. All the fuss around here is about New Years or "Shin Jil". I've had the sneaking feeling this is a Russian thing - since most of the 20th century, Mongolia was closely aligned with Moscow.

Determined to get to the bottom of it, I brought it up over lunch with a Russian/English teacher last week. I asked him and his wife how long Mongolians had been celebrating New Year's. They agreed that they began celebrating this way when they were in the first grade. They're 54 now, so it's been about 48 years or so by their reckoning.

He explained that since Mongolia had such close ties to Russia, they gladly picked up these fun cultural things and celebrated them as their own. They giddily recounted their childhood plays and dances where she always played a dancing "Winter Girl", and one year he was "Grandfather Winter", complete with a big sack of presents, white beard and red outfit.

So, my suspicions were confirmed - it is a Russian thing. But why do the Russians not celebrate Christmas? Why does New Year's look so much like Christmas?

The answer lies in the Communist era with the Soviet suppression of religion and non-state oriented celebrations. According to this site:

"Before 1917, Christmas was celebrated in Russia in much the same way as it was in the rest of the world: on December 25, with Christmas trees and Christmas gifts, Saint Nicholas and the like. During the years of Communism after 1917, all formerly Christmas traditions were transferred to New Year's Eve, which became the traditional winter holiday. New Year's Eve is now to Russians what Christmas is to most people in the rest of the world, with one exception: there is no remnant of Christianity in the holiday. New Year's Eve is simply a chance to celebrate, to bring in the new year and get rid of the old. It is a chance to exchange gifts, have a day off and enjoy oneself."

The Mongolians (and Most Russians) continue to celebrate on the 31st of January, and from what we've heard, it's not the raucous debauchery many of us enjoy in the States, but a family affair just like we might recognize as Christmas. So, when your kids ask how Santa Claus can get all the way around the world in one night, you might tell them he does half the world, takes a week off to restock, and then does the other half around New Year's.

As a staff we'll celebrate together during the week of New Year's, but my work celebrated "Shin Jil" last week with many of our clients. There was dancing, singing, and ceremonial presentations of certificates announcing the year's "best ofs".

All the ladies were decked out in their Shil Jil outfits and the table was stocked with buuz, huushuur, fruits, champagne, vodka and soft drinks.

The Mongolian Waltz is something different than the waltz we know. It involves lots of tight spins and can be done to all kinds of music, not just the 3-4 "oohmp-pop-pop" waltz music we're used to.

My counterpart making some last minute adjustments to the decorations using a makeshift ladder.

Here's a small Shin Jil tree drenched in decorations inside the city government building, complete with official hand-carved government seals in the background. Shin Jil trees are usually pretty small like this.

Whenever you celebrate it, we wish you and yours a Happy New Year!

Borderline

As we were studying in Nathan’s room last Sunday afternoon, Nathan’s host parents said to be ready to leave in 30 minutes! We’re going to the border!

So, Nathan’s host parents, his 28 y/o host brother, 25 y/o host sister, and 4 y/o host sister and we mounted into their Huyndai for a 25 minute trek to the Russian border for a picnic. Packed with mutton, rice soup, boiled potatoes and carrots, beer, soda, and dishes, we showed our special permit to the armed guards and walked up to the magnificent park overlooking the Selenge River and the border.

Nathan’s family and us pause lunch for some cheesing. Front row: Begsuren, Leslie, Nathan, Bulgaa. Second row: Orangoo, Davaasuren. Third Row: Anu.

In the background is Russia. In the foreground is us in Mongolia with us in it.

There is actually a buffer zone between the countries here, so while we approached the guards at the Mongolian border gate, the actual border is at least a kilometer up the road.

Russian border with guard tower: On our way down from a wonderful lunch at the Border.

The trip back was a bumpy good time.

In Other News
In other news, we got a bunch of GREAT mail this week. Nathan got a care package with goodies for his host family and him, complete with lovely note from his mother. Oldest brother Ryan’s letters continue to arrive in much appreciated fashion. Nathan continues to love his Batman, self sealing envelopes and the sentiments.

Leslie finally got the package her parents sent at the beginning of June with candles, books, shoes, nuts, etc. We were starting to wonder. She also got a nice letter from her mom with some priceless niece and nephew photos.

We also got an awesome postcard from friends Zach and Amy from their trip to Colorado, which made Leslie’s week. It was also a good conversation starter with some folks from General Denver’s old stomping grounds.

We also lost a trainee this week, one of Leslie’s crew who had to go home for family reasons. Leslie misses her a lot, hopes everything turns out well, and hopes she’ll be able to return Mongolia. Erica, you’re missed, but thanks for leaving the baby wipes.

It was a long week full of frustrations, heat and mild sickness, but we keep getting positive feedback on our progress and assurances that we, in particular, are going to love our placements. Only a couple more weeks of training to go.