Off the Steppe, and on With the Next Steps

Sitting in a comfortable bus from Brighton on the southern coast of England as we travel back to London, we now know that at least for the foreseeable future, our lives will be divided into two epochs: Pre-Mongolia and Post-Mongolia. Pre-Mongolia Leslie and Nathan experienced things much differently than Post-Mongolia Leslie and Nathan.

The 2 Epochs: Pre-Mongolia and Post Mongolia
The main areas we think we’ll be most affected are in travel and living conditions. For example, we flew for a whole day from Ulaanbaatar to Moscow to London, and since it was in a plane with a bathroom and a helpful staff, it was like a dream in a seat compared to the long, dusty bus trips in Mongolia. We didn’t have a complaint in the world. Also, for two years we mostly lived in one room of a small apartment that lacked a shower and was prone to electrical fires. Now, houses with dining rooms and living rooms that go unused most of the time, or complaining that the hot water is all used up seems a bit ridiculous. We know we can live without a great deal of things we’ve taken for granted – not that we necessarily prefer to live in squalor, mind you.

It will be those comparisons that dominate our conversations with each other for a while as we adjust to each place we travel around Europe until Christmas 2010. Hopefully by then the shock of soap in the restrooms, deliciously organized lines for things like the post office or bank, and feeling more like a guest than an nuisance at restaurants will have worn off so that we can spare our friends and families the annoyance of surprise at the site of potable water.

Mongolia was a wonderful place to visit, and we met a lot of wonderful new friends who are warm and caring. These friends enriched our lives with their smiles, hugs and generosity. When we needed help, they helped willingly and often without being asked. And we did the same. We will never forget them and wish them all the best in coming to visit us in the States.

Even still, we will probably reference our time in Mongolia as the benchmark for so many milestone trying moments and fish -out-of-water moments. Because we lived they way we did, where we did, for so long, we didn’t understand how incredibly stressful it was until we left. In many ways we’re more the same also because we hardly know what a Justin Bieber, we don't know what LiLo is up to is, and we’ve never seen a Kindle or an iPad.

We have changed in many fundamental ways we can’t really even put our fingers on yet. One thing we know for sure though is that we will always, always treat foreigners in America with more consideration because we know that some days just a helpful point in the right direction or a warm smile can change your whole life for the better. We hope you’ll do the same.

Future Resources Including our Forthcoming Book
So we close our Peace Corps blog and hope that if you want to travel to Mongolia or join the Peace Corps, you’ll look up these resources to help you on your way, especially the travel guide we’re writing with Andrew Cullen and Ashlee Christian, both former volunteers in Mongolia. Hopefully we’ve done the hard work for you already.

Other Places Publishing: Mongolia (February 2011)
Nathan Chamberlain, Leslie Ann Shaffer Chamberlain, Ashlee Christian, Andrew Cullen
Online with major retailers like Amazon.com and with most local retailers by order.
URL: http://www.otherplacespublishing.com/mongolia.html

The Unofficial Guide to Peace Corps (NEW!)
Travis Hellstrom
"Peace Corps may be "the toughest job you'll ever love" but you don't always have to learn that the hard way. This is the handbook we wish someone would have given us, something no one has provided before..."
URL: http://www.peacecorpshandbook.com/order

Ghengis Khan and the Making of the Modern World (2004)
Jack Weatherford

Modern Mongolia (2005)
Morris Rossabi

Afternoon at the River

As we wait out our last few weeks in Bayankhongor, the sun has finally come out - albeit intermittently. It's June 12. It snowed just a few days ago. Snow in June is not as fun as it sounds. Longest... winter... ever.

To celebrate the new-found sun, we walked to the nearby river with our site mates Tysen and Wally. It was the perfect day with temps at 70F (20C) and a clean breeze. Oh, yeah!

We went to our local Ching Hai restaurant, whose spiritual movement invites vegetarianism. They attract followers through small restaurants, and though we have not adopted her particular philosophy, we have been eating there almost every day since it opened late last year. On the menu were steamed rolls with tofu and cucumber, and cookies. We brought our own mustard, honey mustard, hot sauce and soy sauce because the flavor of the "oroomog" rolls is not exactly overwhelmingly strong, though clean and fresh.

With a blanket, Coke and condiments in hand, we made the 10-15 minute walk eastward from the Bayankhongor town center toward the Tuin River (pr. 2-een). The wind was in our hair and sun on our faces. As we sat down for our little feast, we were overwhelmed by the sweet perfume of flowers aggressively wafting past.

Leslie, Tysen and Wally lounge by the Tuin River. What a day for a picnic.

There is a bit of a problem with pollution around these parts. Mongolians usually just throw trash on the ground even when they are at the river for the purpose of communing with nature. Because the wind often blows east toward the river, trash from Bayankhongor winds up in the river too. Plastic bags, plastic bottles, beer bottles, and wrappers fill the slower points and bends in the river.

It's a bit depressing to see all the trash in the river next to such beautiful natural wonders.

After our lovely picnic, we walked past the sports center across the street from our apartment. Apparently, World Cup FEVER has taken hold. The sports center recently got a hold of some artificial turf, and on this Saturday, the field was put to good use.

Mongolia is not in the World Cup, but that doesn't stop them from a little practice.

18 days left before we move out of Bayankhongor. But who's counting?

The Secret History Radio Program

Recently, we traveled back to Darkhan (our pre-service training site), to help record a radio program on the Secret History of the Mongols - in English. It will eventually be aired in all 21 Mongolian provinces and be packaged for sale. The final product should look something like the Mongolian version below.

The Mongolian version of "The Secret History of the Mongols Radio Play." The English version we worked on will also be packaged and sold, as well as played on the radio.

We got involved in the program after our friend Tysen recorded his piano audition peices for grad school with the producer, Javkhaa, who is well known to PVCs in Darkhan. He is always working on documentary film projects, including one we might be in about couch surfing in Mongolia. He'll also do a program featuring Tysen and other forgeiners who live in gers in Mongolia, which will air in Mongolia. He speaks English pretty darn well, has a jounalism degree and has a trade school degree in videography. He just turned 30 a few months ago, so he likes to tell us he is our older brother but we look like his BIG siblings.

Javkhaa: radio producer, director, videographer, editor. He's hard at work and enjoying his job.

First, Nathan performed as Jamukha, childhood friend turned sworn enemy of Temujin (later Chinggis Khan or Ghengis Khan, as you might know him). As a protagonist, Jamukha was a dark villanous character who eventually asks the great king to spare his life with a quick death. During that time in Mongolian history, the Mongolian tribes that were spread wide across the vast steppe were being organized by various regional powers. According to the legend, the most successful kings were Jamukha (later Gur Khan) and Chinggis Khan. Chinggis Khan offered to share the kingdom together, but the Gur Khan refused in favor one, unified Mongolian people.

Nathan spends some time in the recording booth playing Jamukha, sworn brother turned sworn enemy of Temujin/Chinggis Khan.

Because the parts have been recorded part-by-part, we had to play off Nargi, a Darkhan English teacher and summer Peace Corps trainer. Nargi's English is so good, he has a kind of California surfer accent mixed with his Mongolian accent. Javkhaa was able to direct us pretty well, but for the more complicated direction, he used Nargi as a translator. Incidentally, Nargi also wrote the screenplay for the English version we were recording.

Besides his charm and wit, Nargi is an Elvis impersonator, and a good one. He's a really talented musician and learned most of his English through music, he says. His most notable influences are, of course Elvis, and the Seattle grunge scene, especially Nirvana.

Nargi played various characters to set up our scenes. He also acted as director and translator making sure we got the most out of every scene.

Leslie played O'luen, mother of Temujin (later Chinggis Khan) and his siblings. Her part was a little smaller, but very powerful. Her energy and poise came through well as she delivered the well known stories encouraging Temujin and his brothers to stop fighting amongst themselves and to work together, which foreshadows Chinggis Khan's unification of the Mongol tribes into one, powerful people that eventually established the largest empire in history ranging from Asia to Europe.

Leslie turned on the drama as O'luen, the mother of Temujin/Chinggis Khan.

We enjoyed our time in the booth with Nargi and Javkhaa. Look forward to hearing this English version of "The Secret History of the Mongols Radio Play" on 106 FM in Darkhan next year after post production has been completed.

Teaching on Khongor TV

Our new site mate, Anna, and old site mate, Peder, have been teaching English on TV with a Mongolian teacher for a couple of months now. Last week, Leslie was asked to play and teach a song.




On the studio's chalkboard, Leslie wrote the lyrics of the first and most recognizable verse of the Woody Guthrie classic, "This Land is Your Land." After reading the lyrics aloud, the Mongolian teacher, Dashka, translated the words for the over-the-air students at home.

Then all together, they sang the whole verse through:

This land is your land, this land is my land

From California to the New York Island

From the Redwood Forest to the Gulf Stream waters

This land was made for you and me.

To break it down, first Leslie read the lyrics for pronunciation. Then she sang the lyrics, putting the tune with the words. And then finally, to cement each new portion, she accompanied herself on guitar and sang.

With the first line sent out and happily sung in gers throughout Bayankhongor, she continued likewise with the next three lines, finishing by once again singing the whole verse from top to bottom.

And that's how you teach an English song when you can't see the students.

Because the schools have been shut down all month due to the H1N1, teachers have commandeered the airwaves to teach lessons from UB. Regular classes start up next Monday bringing those to an end, but Anna and Peder's regular English classes will still air Tuesdays and Saturdays at 7p.m., so tune in to Khongor TV and learn your ABC's.

Bayankhongor American Culture Center Opens!

Excerpts from the grant we helped Tysen and Oyuntugs write:

"The Bayankhongor American Culture Center (BACC) is the brainchild of Oyuntugs, PCV Tysen Dauer’s counterpart. She noticed that Bayankhongor Aimag [Province] lacks a public English education center and adequate English resources. Community members have requested several English based classes. Over twenty five Bayankhongor residents requested a TOEFL preparation class. There have been over two hundred fifty requests for English courses ranging from elementary to advanced conversation classes... There have been numerous requests for English literature, TOEFL resources, computer classes, English language films, American popular culture magazines, and above all a safe and engaging space for Bayankhongor youth.

"To address these needs, Oyuntugs approached the aimag government in January 2009 about acquiring a space for the BACC. The local government has given the BACC two rooms in the aimag government center and has promised to provide rooms in the future Children’s Palace, which is currently being built in the aimag center. [At the time of the grant], the BACC [had] limited resources: four sets of benches, five tables with broken legs, a small desk, and a blackboard. Resources are being accumulated through additional grants. These resources include books, DVDs, CDs, music scores, computers, internet access, and electronic English language learning programs."

From the grants, we were able to get all of these items, paint the room, install electricity, and have desks, chairs and shelves made. And this made for a great atmosphere for the sample classes we taught during Saturday's open house.

PCV Peder and his counterpart teach a lesson together during the open house.

(Left) New PCV Wally teaches with his counterpart, Boldmaa, the head methodologist for the aimag. (Right) Students actively participate during a class.

The open classes were well attended, but the opening ceremony was the highlight of Saturday's events. Our Peace Corps Country Director Jim Carl flew in special to offer his remarks. He was set to come to Bayankhongor for a routine, periodic site visit and was able to arrange his schedule to accommodate our needs. He and one of the medical officers, Amy, stayed in a hotel in Bayankhongor for 5 days.

(Left) Peace Corps Country Director Jim Carl makes his opening remarks praising the work of the community and emphasizing that this is just the beginning of a new step toward bringing the USA, which is often referred to as Mongolia's third neighbor, closer to Bayankhongor. His counterpart representing the provincial government reinforced the same.


Nathan's counterpart Undrah, who has a commanding voice and personality, was the master of ceremonies. Here, he is making notes.


Leslie accompanies a group of students on "This Land is Your Land."



(Top left) A performer from the 4-member group, Baby Girls, from new volunteer Anna's school, stands in her school uniform anxiously awaiting a resolution to technical difficulties for her song and dance to "Eternal Flame". (Top right) Dancers from Tysen's business school danced to an upbeat number you might hear behind cheerleaders at an American sporting event. (Bottom left) A Mongolian dancer from Leslie's theater cuts an impressive rug. (Bottom right) Undrah holds the microphone for a student from Leslie's theater who is playing the horsehead fiddle or "morin huur".


Jim Carl and a Mongolian girl cut the ribbon to open the Bayankhongor American Culture Center on September 19, 2009.

A Special Thanks
We called out to our friends and families to show us Americana. With their help, we were able to print and display over 260 photos on the wall of our culture center. Here are some of the highlights:

Please check out all the photos here and here.

Thanks to our professionals:
Eric George
Piper Robbins
Rob Shore
Ashlee Christian

Thanks also to our keen-eyed amateurs:
Melody McFarland
Lydia Godfrey Donovan
Melissa Munoz
David and Melissa Reeder
Paige Robbins Elwafi
Cat Kruszka
Kristen Chamberlain
Mary Lou Chamberlain
Kendall Glouner
Cipperly Good
Jen Sokira
Nancy Nally
Bonnie Gruttadauria
Cynthia Rack

(Top, bottom left) Attendees gawk at the photo wall courtesy of our friends and family. (Bottom right) Students, teachers and Peace Corps volunteers and Peace Corps Country Director Jim Carl pose to commemorate the opening of the culture center.

Classes began this week, and the third consecutive week of American Movie Night hosted by Leslie, is set for this Friday! You can come, but just a warning, it will be packed like last week.